Skrei, the Norwegian miracle

02 February 2007

Once a year a miracle takes place in the Arctic Ocean. Between January and March the Norwegian coast is the scene of one of nature's most magnificent events. From the enormous, nutrient-rich grazing areas in the Barents Sea in the north, the arctic cod arrive by the millions, migrating into the spawning fields along the wintery coast of Norway to carry on their family name.

For the majority of this cod, which when spawning is called skrei, the goal is the area by the beautiful and fascinating island kingdom of Lofoten, about 400 km north of the Polar Circle. In the Barents Sea, the skrei has spent at least five years maturing to adulthood. It is then sexually mature and strong enough to make the long journey from the ocean far in the north to the coast of Norway. The skrei is cod in its prime, full of energy and fertility.

 

 

The fact is that skrei is a strain of cod in its own right, the Norwegian-Arctic, which migrates across great distances, growing up into maturity in the pure and cold Arctic Ocean.

Every single year since time immemorial this natural migration has taken place. First, of course, to the joy of the people living so far north.

The ancient saga tells of how the Norwegian Vikings were probably the first to make the skrei a commodity for trade as early as in the 10^th century. The significance and the value of skrei finds expression early in the 12^th century when every fisherman was obliged to pay King Øystein I Magnusson five skrei in taxes! According to the saga, the King in return built a church and cabins for the fishermen in one of the old fishing villages in Lofoten.

Historians have also established that skrei was in fact exported, in dried form, as early as in the 12^th century. There is therefore much evidence to suggest that skrei was the first Norwegian export article.

Eventually, the Lofoten skrei developed into Norway's most important seasonal fish.

Thousands of fishermen gather every winter in Lofoten to catch skrei and in this manner harvest from nature’s abundance.

The annual appearance of the skrei has had great cultural and industrial-economic significance throughout the ages. In terms of employment, the high point was reached in the mid 19^th century. At that time more than 30,000 persons were employed, Norway's largest work force of the era, in connection with the fishing activity in Lofoten.

Visiting fishermen from north and south, then in rowboats and sailboats, gathered in the areas nearby and surrounding the islands of Lofoten in hopes of good fishing and the best possible catch in the course of the skrei season, specifically from January to April.

If on the other hand the fishing went poorly – and that has occurred on more than one occasion – many families were in dire straits.

And it is still difficult to predict when, where and in what numbers the skrei will come in to the coast. The fear that the skrei shall fail to appear is thus also movingly described by the poet-clergyman Petter Dass (1647 - 1708) in his prayer to the Lord:

      “And should You, Lord, foreshorten your hand

       and close the Skrei-cod and fish off from Land,

      We would then be made destitute.” 

Acknowledgement of the great significance of skrei has contributed to the development of Lofoten fishing into one of the world's best organised and most strictly regulated fisheries. As early as in 1816 the first regulation by law of Lofoten fishing was introduced. An official Fishery Supervisor continues to monitor fishing and ensures that the fishing does not begin before an agreed hour every day.

The fishing areas are differentiated according to the type of fishing gear the fishermen use in them. Some types of gear are completely prohibited in Lofoten. The objective is of course to ensure a healthy, growing skrei stock for our own pleasure and that of our descendants. 

Skrei fishing in Lofoten is still one of the year's greatest fishery events. The vessels and accommodations have changed with the times. But the fishermen's dream of an abundant catch and a prosperous livelihood is the same. In 1998 some 52 million kilos of skrei were fished in Lofoten.

In addition, the skrei season provides opportunities for the most unique types of culinary experiences. People along the Norwegian coastline have throughout all the ages known how to appreciate the delicate and nutritious food provided by the skrei. The traditional Norwegian preparation is simple: fish, liver and roe (each in a separate pot) are poached until tender in boiling, lightly salted water and served with boiled potatoes.

Due to the increased propagation of the delicacy skrei, there are now many regional and international specialties based on this exceptionally firm, choice and white raw material.